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Reactive, unpredictable dog, please help

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Hi, @Free spirit -

Sorry to say, I cannot agree that simply hanging out with another dog-owner, no matter how “calm & sensible” she or he may be, will painlessly & effortlessly cause problem behaviors to evaporate. :oops:

The owner or handler can be as calm & self-confident as an iceberg floating amid a flotilla of fellow bergs, in a calm cold sea; CHANGING THE DOG’S BEHAVIOR - that is, her or his actions - requires that we change our own behavior, first.
In short, when U keep doing what U’re doing, U keep getting what U’re getting. :( And the longer any behavior is rehearsed, the harder that habit becomes to change... so it behooves us to begin changes A.S.A.P., so that we have the least habitual response to delete.

Also, changing the dog’s behavior involves behavior modification , which alters the dog’s FEELINGS about a situation, or their feelings toward an individual or a set of individuals [e-g, my dog doesn’t like prick-eared dogs; I use Open-Bar / Closed-Bar to change my dog’s emotional response from dread, to happy anticipation whenever they see a prick-eared dog approaching in the distance].

Training happens all the time, because dogs - like humans, like every other sapient being - are constantly learning from their experiences.
But getting DESIRED behaviors from our dogs involves some effort on our parts - it doesn’t simply happen. :D

I’ve been training my own & others’ dogs for over 40 years, & have yet to see any dog self-train to perform desired behaviors, on cue, or simply in the apropos contexts. Dogs need to be taught what we want, if only so that we can cue the wanted behavior; they also need to be socialized to other living creatures, & habituated to nonliving stimuli [settings, sounds, substrates, movement, etc].

Even Border Collies & GSDs, overeager volunteers who are famous for eagerly watching for those instants when they can do something for us, must be taught what to do; an untrained BC is just as likely to chase a flock of sheep over a cliff’s edge as they are to move the flock toward the shepherd.
Instinct only takes a dog so far; it’s up to the human to nurture & direct that instinct.

Every dog needs training; in an ideal world, every dog owner is capable of training their dog, & is also willing to put in the time... because what U get from them as behavior, is a reflection of what U put into that dog’s education. :)

- terry

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Hi, @Free spirit -

Sorry to say, I cannot agree that simply hanging out with another dog-owner, no matter how “calm & sensible” she or he may be, will painlessly & effortlessly cause problem behaviors to evaporate. :oops:

The owner or handler can be as calm & self-confident as an iceberg floating amid a flotilla of fellow bergs, in a calm cold sea; CHANGING THE DOG’S BEHAVIOR - that is, her or his actions - requires that we change our own behavior, first.
In short, when U keep doing what U’re doing, U keep getting what U’re getting. :( And the longer any behavior is rehearsed, the harder that habit becomes to change... so it behooves us to begin changes A.S.A.P., so that we have the least habitual response to delete.

Also, changing the dog’s behavior involves behavior modification , which alters the dog’s FEELINGS about a situation, or their feelings toward an individual or a set of individuals [e-g, my dog doesn’t like prick-eared dogs; I use Open-Bar / Closed-Bar to change my dog’s emotional response from dread, to happy anticipation whenever they see a prick-eared dog approaching in the distance].

Training happens all the time, because dogs - like humans, like every other sapient being - are constantly learning from their experiences.
But getting DESIRED behaviors from our dogs involves some effort on our parts - it doesn’t simply happen. :D

I’ve been training my own & others’ dogs for over 40 years, & have yet to see any dog self-train to perform desired behaviors, on cue, or simply in the apropos contexts. Dogs need to be taught what we want, if only so that we can cue the wanted behavior; they also need to be socialized to other living creatures, & habituated to nonliving stimuli [settings, sounds, substrates, movement, etc].

Even Border Collies & GSDs, overeager volunteers who are famous for eagerly watching for those instants when they can do something for us, must be taught what to do; an untrained BC is just as likely to chase a flock of sheep over a cliff’s edge as they are to move the flock toward the shepherd.
Instinct only takes a dog so far; it’s up to the human to nurture & direct that instinct.

Every dog needs training; in an ideal world, every dog owner is capable of training their dog, & is also willing to put in the time... because what U get from them as behavior, is a reflection of what U put into that dog’s education. :)

- terry

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That is exactly what I am doing i am contributing to my dog's education myself using my own methods drawn from many sources and he is doing wonderfully well thanks.
 
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About retraining for a reliable rapid-recall [on a long line & Y-harness, not loose] -

One of the best tactics I know requires a helper: someone known to the dog, willing & able to hold onto the HARNESS rather than the long-line, in order to restrain him as U run off.

The idea is that as the helper holds the dog, not speaking, not petting, just holding onto the shoulder strap above the girth, U jog away, excitedly calling him to come on!, Hurry!, Let’s go, Fido!, etc.
Look over yer shoulder to call him [but don’t trip], pat yer thigh, use a high pitched excited voice & short, repeated cues - “Come on, Fido! - quick, quick, quick, let’s go, hurry up, good dog!...”

Just as SOON as the dog struggles the least bit, or pulls, the helper lets go of him EDIT: while continuing to hold onto the long-line, & yells cheerfully, INCOMING! - that’s Ur cue to turn, squat, open yer arms, & enthusiastically welcome Ur dog, rewarding him with loads of happy talk & a jackpot: a series of small, very high-value tidbits, given one after another, just as fast as he swallows the prior tidbit, accompanied by an ongoing stream of warm, sincere, low-pitched praise:
“What a good, gooood boy - very good, U came running, such a smart dog!... yes, good dog, brilliant dog, U did great, ...”

The 1st few times, the dog barely needs to tug lightly to be released - but then the helper restrains him more & more, forcing the dog to really PULL to be let go, so he can pursue U. // This builds a really powerful, fast recall, as the dog is very eager to overcome the restraint & run to get his goodies! :D


HTH, ‘
- terry

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So I have an update on my reactive beast. We have now been walking with his muzzle on and also the NO DOGS coat and it has been very successful. People stay clear away from us now in the park and of course I feel a lot more relaxed about taking him out into the public. Just this morning I was on my way home and was thinking "finally, we have a bit more stability now" and then I got an email from the letting agency saying that they received a complaint about my dogs barking at night. Ugh.

Now I know this is an exaggeration because at night they are sleeping, however, they do bark at absolutely everything that passes by the fence during the day. I don't often let them into the garden, only about 3 times a day and for short periods, but it is true that when they are in the garden they bark at people passing by. I am starting to think that bringing them over from a small town in Mexico to a bustling city like London was a very bad idea.

The behaviourist is scheduled to come on Friday for Nacho's reactivity problem so I will ask her of course for suggestions. In the meantime, I guess my question is the following. What constitutes "barking late at night?" I don't usually allow them into the garden after 11pm as I know they will bark. Also, I was planning to get a dog flap installed so the smaller one could relieve himself when I'm not at home as he has already left me a little present in the bathroom before. I work from home so I am usually at home during the day, but I often have rehearsals in the evening and leave the house around 5pm until about 11pm. I am wondering whether installing the dog flap would be a bad idea at this point. Also wondering about the summer when I had planned to leave them in the garden when I am not at home.

Any input would be appreciated. Thank you for helping out so much so far.
 
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I think the first thing I would do is to get in touch with the letting agency and thank them for contacting you. Say you really want to resolve the problem and have arranged for a behaviourist to come round. But I would also say that you only let the dogs into the garden for short periods and never after 11pm.

Then I would meticulously record when you let them out, and for how long - and if they bark. If you can bring the late-night outing forward a bit, that could help too. Then, if the complainant escalates the complaint, I would ask the letting agency to ask them what times they hear the barking and for how long. Some people do exaggerate a lot, and often simply lie.

As for the cat flap, and leaving the dogs in the garden in the summer... my feeling is that your priority is keeping your home, and the letting agency might not show much tolerance if there are complaints - why try to arbitrate if you can just kick someone out and get a new tenant? Would you be able to have someone come over to let your dogs out when you have to be out the house for longer periods? Six hours is quite a long time for any dog to be left so I'm sure they would all benefit from it.

Can your dogs see people through the fence/gate, or are they triggered by sounds? If they can see them, blocking the view could help. If not... there may be ways to train them to reduce their barking but it might not be easy. I'm not an expert so hopefully someone else will have some ideas.
 
Not sure on managing barking, but managing neighbors might be in order too... perhaps some oatmeal cookies for them? If it comes to arbitration, a few allies won’t hurt.
Some may even be willing to look after the dogs when you are out.
 
We live on a corner and weve found that Murphy will bark no matter what time of day it is if people or cats get too close. However by letting him out on a lead 2 meters and walking him the perimeter of the garden should he get spooked and start to bark or growl we are in control and can nip it in the bud with a leave it and a thankyou with reward .. Just a thought plus it shows you take your neighbours concerns seriously and are putting work into it.
 
I think the first thing I would do is to get in touch with the letting agency and thank them for contacting you. Say you really want to resolve the problem and have arranged for a behaviourist to come round. But I would also say that you only let the dogs into the garden for short periods and never after 11pm.

I have indeed told them that this is the case and asked them if they knew what time the neighbours said it happened. The letting agency was actually very understanding and said "lets leave it as is for now and if they complain again I will ask what time they say it happened."

Then I would meticulously record when you let them out, and for how long - and if they bark. If you can bring the late-night outing forward a bit, that could help too. Then, if the complainant escalates the complaint, I would ask the letting agency to ask them what times they hear the barking and for how long. Some people do exaggerate a lot, and often simply lie.

As for the cat flap, and leaving the dogs in the garden in the summer... my feeling is that your priority is keeping your home, and the letting agency might not show much tolerance if there are complaints - why try to arbitrate if you can just kick someone out and get a new tenant? Would you be able to have someone come over to let your dogs out when you have to be out the house for longer periods? Six hours is quite a long time for any dog to be left so I'm sure they would all benefit from it.

Indeed I have a neighbour who is lovely who I sometimes ask to come over and let them in the garden, but the dog flap was so that I didn't have to ask her to do this anymore. I didn't want to be a burden for her so I thought the flap would be a great idea.

Can your dogs see people through the fence/gate, or are they triggered by sounds? If they can see them, blocking the view could help. If not... there may be ways to train them to reduce their barking but it might not be easy. I'm not an expert so hopefully someone else will have some ideas.

Indeed there is a bit at the end of the garden where they can see through but I think it wouldn't make much of a difference. I think the only option forward really is to train them not to bark at every single person passing by. I might just cancel the dog flap for now until they are trained.

I definitely do not want to have to move again, especially because it has already been a huge ordeal for them moving from Mexico and they are just now settling in the new house and environment.

Thank you for your message!
 
Not sure on managing barking, but managing neighbors might be in order too... perhaps some oatmeal cookies for them? If it comes to arbitration, a few allies won’t hurt.
Some may even be willing to look after the dogs when you are out.

Unfortunately I do not know which neighbours have put in the complaint as the letting agency was contacted by an agency (not sure what kind of agency). I was offered no information. I do wish the neighbours had come to me directly though.
 
It's brilliant the letting agent is totally onside :)

I wouldn't worry too much about burdening your neighbour. Most people are only too pleased to help out when they feel they can make a difference, particularly if they feel appreciated (chocolate, flowers & wine are your weapons of choice here;)). Training the dogs not to bark could be a long-term aim, and only achieveable if you can remove the need and/or opportunity to bark while you're working on it - every time they bark at someone going past the garden this reinforces the behaviour - particularly as in their minds their bark has made the person go away!
 
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