Hi there.i rescued my pug cross bitch 2 years ago.she has always peed in the house .she will do it outside but still does it inside.i got her spayed in case it was sent marking but it hasent helped .any help would be appreciated. Many thanks
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Pug cross peeing in house
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The first thing is a vet check to establish whether it is a medical issue or a behavioural one. If it is behavioural, go right back to basics with toilet training.
Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.
Ideally you want her to not be in a position where she needs to toilet before you have her outdoors, so that every toilet is outside - as far as possible, So set her up to succeed by taking her out even more than she needs; for example every hour or so and always after sleeping, eating, playing. Your aim is to have her outside before she needs to toilet. When she toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward her with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make her come to you for the treat so she is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that she wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until she is outside. If she has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed she may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if she needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. Just clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract her back to the spot. As she is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words she can associate with it (like 'do weewee') that later when she is reliably trained you can use these to tell her when you want her to toilet.
Indoors if you see her circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get her out fast.
Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.
Ideally you want her to not be in a position where she needs to toilet before you have her outdoors, so that every toilet is outside - as far as possible, So set her up to succeed by taking her out even more than she needs; for example every hour or so and always after sleeping, eating, playing. Your aim is to have her outside before she needs to toilet. When she toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward her with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make her come to you for the treat so she is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that she wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until she is outside. If she has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed she may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if she needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. Just clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract her back to the spot. As she is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words she can associate with it (like 'do weewee') that later when she is reliably trained you can use these to tell her when you want her to toilet.
Indoors if you see her circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get her out fast.
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per the OP, she pee'ed indoors *B4* her spay - ergo, it wasn't caused by her OHE.
In fact, she was spayed under the theory that she might be marking, due to F hormones.
Spayed is good, in any case - the more heats, the greater her risk of breast cancer [4X as common in F dogs as in f humans], plus her greatest risk of Pyometra & UTIs is the 90-day period post-estrus, 2X each year.
There's no Q that desex made her safer, & can significantly extend her life - mammary tumors are often lethal on diagnosis, b/c by the time they cause symptoms & the dog is taken to the vet, the cancer's in the lungs, & she's put down at the same appt as she's Dx'ed. Once it's in her lungs, it's untreatable, & they go downhill quickly.
In the USA, almost 7 of 10 Fs with breast tumors are euthanized on diagnosis, b/c it's in her lungs already. [the actual stat is 68%.]
=================
to get back to her indoor-urine, what are U using to clean up?
It needs to be removed with an enzyme-based cleaner made for pet-waste, vomit, etc, such as Planet Urine, Pee-Be-Gone, & similar. // Otherwise, the odor of urine brings her back to the same place, & repeated pee makes it a habit, plus it destroys rugs, carpet-pads, flooring or subflooring, etc.
To find all the places she's gone already, even older ones U didn't know about, buy or rent a UV light [blacklight], wait for dark, turn out the lights in the room, & carefully search with the UV light - anything biological will fluoresce.
Clean 'em all with the enzyme-cleaner, & follow the maker's directions scrupulously. If it says spray it & wait 24-hrs, do that; set up a barrier to keep the dog away while it's "working".
[tip:
Don't use a UV-light in a hotel room where U intend to stay the night. U'll find stuff that will keep U awake. ]
=========================
I'll also second the suggestion to get her outside ON LEASH to potty at least twice as often as U think she needs it - every 90-mins to 2-hrs is good, *plus* after every trigger. Triggers include wake from sleep; eat a meal, or a large drink; active play; anything exciting [visitors arrive or depart, resident comes home, etc].
U want her on leash so U can see what she produces, how much she produces, & any details - straining, any pink in her urine [blood], anything in her feces that isn't normal stool, etc.
Plus, she's gotta be on leash so U can pay-out every time she actually voids outdoors - warm low-pitched quiet praise WHILE she voids, & a tidbit directly under her nose as soon as she stands from her squat. If she's off leash, U can't see precisely what she's produced - maybe she just dribbled; maybe it wasn't the right place, & she changed her mind.
So U can't be sure if she's actually voided, & needs an immediate reward - which U can't give on the spot, 'cuz she'll either walk toward U, or trot away as U approach. No way U'll get there while she's still squatting!
A 3rd reason, besides accurate monitoring & immediate reward, is that she gets accustomed to voiding with a human hanging over her shoulder - U don't want a shy eliminator, whose bladder knots closed when they can't have total privacy, or whose bowels clamp shut when somebody's watching. It makes getting a urine or stool sample way, way easier, if they're well-habituated to lurking humans.
- terry
.
per the OP, she pee'ed indoors *B4* her spay - ergo, it wasn't caused by her OHE.
In fact, she was spayed under the theory that she might be marking, due to F hormones.
Spayed is good, in any case - the more heats, the greater her risk of breast cancer [4X as common in F dogs as in f humans], plus her greatest risk of Pyometra & UTIs is the 90-day period post-estrus, 2X each year.
There's no Q that desex made her safer, & can significantly extend her life - mammary tumors are often lethal on diagnosis, b/c by the time they cause symptoms & the dog is taken to the vet, the cancer's in the lungs, & she's put down at the same appt as she's Dx'ed.
Once it's in her lungs, it's untreatable, & they go downhill quickly.In the USA, almost 7 of 10 Fs with breast tumors are euthanized on diagnosis, b/c it's in her lungs already. [the actual stat is 68%.]
=================
to get back to her indoor-urine, what are U using to clean up?
It needs to be removed with an enzyme-based cleaner made for pet-waste, vomit, etc, such as Planet Urine, Pee-Be-Gone, & similar. // Otherwise, the odor of urine brings her back to the same place, & repeated pee makes it a habit, plus it destroys rugs, carpet-pads, flooring or subflooring, etc.
To find all the places she's gone already, even older ones U didn't know about, buy or rent a UV light [blacklight], wait for dark, turn out the lights in the room, & carefully search with the UV light - anything biological will fluoresce.
Clean 'em all with the enzyme-cleaner, & follow the maker's directions scrupulously. If it says spray it & wait 24-hrs, do that; set up a barrier to keep the dog away while it's "working".
[tip:
Don't use a UV-light in a hotel room where U intend to stay the night. U'll find stuff that will keep U awake.
]=========================
I'll also second the suggestion to get her outside ON LEASH to potty at least twice as often as U think she needs it - every 90-mins to 2-hrs is good, *plus* after every trigger. Triggers include wake from sleep; eat a meal, or a large drink; active play; anything exciting [visitors arrive or depart, resident comes home, etc].
U want her on leash so U can see what she produces, how much she produces, & any details - straining, any pink in her urine [blood], anything in her feces that isn't normal stool, etc.
Plus, she's gotta be on leash so U can pay-out every time she actually voids outdoors - warm low-pitched quiet praise WHILE she voids, & a tidbit directly under her nose as soon as she stands from her squat.
If she's off leash, U can't see precisely what she's produced - maybe she just dribbled; maybe it wasn't the right place, & she changed her mind.So U can't be sure if she's actually voided, & needs an immediate reward - which U can't give on the spot, 'cuz she'll either walk toward U, or trot away as U approach. No way U'll get there while she's still squatting!
A 3rd reason, besides accurate monitoring & immediate reward, is that she gets accustomed to voiding with a human hanging over her shoulder - U don't want a shy eliminator, whose bladder knots closed when they can't have total privacy, or whose bowels clamp shut when somebody's watching.
It makes getting a urine or stool sample way, way easier, if they're well-habituated to lurking humans.- terry
.
