Doesn't want to walk.

[gmac00]

Hi,

New to the forum and looking for some advice with my 13 week old Cockapoo, Carter. He is coming along great in the house, sleeps in his crate at night and not had an accident for a couple of weeks now however....he doesn't like going out for a walk.

When out on his lead he either tries to pull to get home or is constantly jumping to get picked up. He doesn't seem overly distressed, just not keen on being out of the house. When he is off the lead he very rarely leaves my side (see attached photo). I am very aware of not pushing him to much but at the same time don't want to end up with a dog that won't walk. He seems OK when meeting other dogs if a bit timid at times.I have treats with me while out walking but they don't seem to make much difference.

Any idea would be welcomed.

Thanks

Graham

 

[JoanneF]

Hi. What you describe is quite common, the big world is scary to pups when they first experience it. So a few ideas -

Take it slow, little frequent walks are better than big walks. Maybe up your treats to higher value ones like chicken. Try walking backwards so he is coming towards you and make a big fuss when he does a few steps. Build up gradually to more and more steps.

Manage the socialisatIon process - it's not about letting every person and every dog meet your puppy. Think quality rather than quality, allow calm role model people and dogs to approach, not squealing kids and cooing adults that just want to put their hands all over him.

If you know someone with a calm older dog that can go out with you, that can help encouraging him to walk.

Try attaching a ribbon to his collar in the house to get him used to something being there. Try a harness on your walks - these are a lot kinder on the dog, and reduce the risk of damage to the trachea. If you use a long line or flexi, these should only be used with a harness because of the risk of injury if the dog is running out and gets pulled up short when he reaches the end. With harnesses watch out for fasteners close to armpits that can be uncomfortable, and a lot of the nylon ones are finished to stop fraying by heating the ends - that leaves a really hard edge that can be uncomfortable if it rubs in a sensitive place.

Lastly, it's too late now but if anyone else reads this in future, taking your puppy out BEFORE his second vaccinations in a pet carrier or a sling is really helpful in getting over this sort of nervousness. It lets him build experience of the big scary world from a safe place, and makes the pup much more confident when it comes to the first walks. The main risk to puppies is from faeces from rats or unvaccinated dogs, so using a pet carrier is completely safe in these circumstances.

Dont fret - he will get there, it will just take time and patience. It won't be long before he is dragging you out in the rain!

 

[gmac00]

Hi Joanne,

Thanks for responding, it's just going to take time as you say. We actually bought a harness for him last night and tried it this morning so at least I am on the right track .I do think having an older, calm dog out with him might help, just need to find one lol

We did what you suggested before his second vaccination and had him out and about in his carrier and seemed fine, just when his feet touched the ground it all went wrong  )

Thanks

Graham

 

[gypsysmum2]

I agree with all that Joanne has said.

It is very tempting to try to make a puppy move forward in order to "prove" that there is nothing to worry about. It is much more productive to just allow them to plant themselves or even move back to a safe spot. It takes absolutely ages but the main thing to achieve is for the puppy to not get anxious. That is your prime goal. Anxiety prevents learning. You are, therefore, wasting your time if your puppy is anxious the whole time you are out because no learning is taking place.

The use of tasty treats helps is two ways. It rewards the dog for being brave, and do make sure your timing is good and that only forward movement, or lack of retreat from a scary stimulus, gets rewarded. It also sends a subliminal message the dog that it cannot be anxious because it is eating. (A really fearful dog will refuse food because it interferes with the fight/flight response by weighing down the stomach.)

There was a tv programme on a while ago where they filmed a Staffy that was terrified to go out. They sat on the front step of the house for days on end with the dog just rewarding any bravery and, just as important, ignoring any fear response. They then moved down the path a little at a time. Each time rewarding bravery and ignoring fear.

You could try an Adaptil collar or a bandana soaked with Adaptil spray.

Are you attending Puppy Socialisation Classes? If not do look up any APDT run ones in your area. They are a brilliant support through all the trials and tribulations of puppy rearing. All the puppies there will have a problem or two and the trainer will give individual advice and support as you go each week.