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Back up plan

lynyona

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Took Betty out in her harness this morning but I am getting a bit paranoid about her getting out of it and running off. I have heard instances of this. The harness fits her quite well as it should but I know they aren't fool proof . My idea to have a secondary lead on her collar as back up didn't really work because the lead was longer than the one attached to the harness with it being further back so was still basically being walked by her collar . I did fully trust the harness when I got back in our street which worked quite well she didn't pull but walked nice. I not convinced that she would come back when called if she escaped , her coming when called is hit and miss maybe I need to do more recall training with her . Id hate to lose her or her get injured or cause an accident because she was running loose ..see paranoid lol
 
There are harnesses that are pretty much escape proof. I can't remember if you ever said what one you have at the moment but Ruffwear webmaster, 3peaks excursion, indidog houdini, and sowinka design anti escape all come to mind and might be worth looking at. I can't imagine how T could get out of his Perfect Fit either but it isn't marketed as escape proof.
 
Its a pets at home one we took her especially to get a good fit but the lady said sometimes if the dogs pull back sometimes they can escape from them . if she hadn't have said that I wouldn't have given it a second thought.
Dog harness.jpg
Just read the reviews and people said don't buy dog escaped
 
Hi. I recently bought this one for my 14-week-old puppy and it has a backup built in! On the front it has a clip which you clip to the dog's collar, so that if they did slip out of it then you'd still be attached to the collar.

It also has the benefit of both a front and back D-ring, so you can clip your lead on to the front if you want to train them not to pull (that's what I'm doing now) and then later you can clip it to the back instead. It's very easy to put on them.

Also, I couldn't imagine a dog slipping out of it. It would be very hard. Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005D4NZ50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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the Sure-Fit is a good sturdy Y-harness that's carried by Amazon-UK -
it adjusts in 5 places to fit all over, & also has a chest-ring & back-ring.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PetSafe-Surefit-Harness-Large-Black/dp/B01F39RN0C/


Make any harness SNUG - none of that "finger under the strap" let alone "TWO or 3 Fingers" under the strap! :eek:
Everyone has different-sized fingers, anyway - the very origin of the expression, "fits like a glove", is precisely that every finger and the hands must be measured in 3 dimensions, & thus, back when nothing was elastic fibers & nothing was mass-manufactured, every pair of fitted gloves was custom-made.

Any harness should be sufficiently snug that on a smooth-coat, the SKIN plumps up on each side of the straps, & on a double-coat, the HAIR should bristle up on each side of the straps. When the harness is removed after wearing, there should be visible 'harness tracks' where the straps were, which vanish when the dog shakes-off & settles their coat.
NO FINGERS, not even a pinky, should fit under a strap.

IME & IMO - YMMV,
- terry

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If U can't find a short coupler 6 to 8-inches long, to link harness to collar as back-up, I'd buy a cheap nylon-webbing leash, cut it to wrap around the GIRTH of the harness, from the collar's D-ring over the dog's shoulder, & leave AT LEAST 2-inches extra.
Heat-seal the cut edge of the webbing to stop it shredding apart, using a lighter or a match & melting the cut edge lightly - do this outside or under an exterior-vented hood, as the fumes created are noxious.

Once cooled, turn the cut-edge under & measure the length it needs to be, with the dog wearing the harness.
Turn the cut-edge under at least an inch, & box-stitch it using dental floss as thread. Square-knot the cut floss after the 1st stitch, & again melt the knot slightly with a match.
Box-stitch means stitch an open box shape, then stitch from corner to corner making an X in the center; at each corner, go entirely around both pieces of lapped webbing, then go back thru the lapped webbing to the other side, & continue stitching.
Finish off with a square-knot on the final stitch, & again melt it slightly.

Now U have a custom-made coupler, with a loop that goes over the girth strap at the shoulders & clips at the other end to the D-ring on the dog's collar. :) Once U have everything assembled - long-eye needle, dental floss, webbing leash, scissors, matches / lighter - it takes just 15-minutes or so of stitching to finish the coupler
Don't forget a vented hood to the outside, if U melt the webbing edge & floss-knots indoors.

- terry

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We have this harness, Olive and Doris both can escape; we were once in a restaurant and we were all sitting at a table then we just saw Olive and Doris over the other side of the restaurant and they had figured out that if they turn backwards and pull they can escape. If we use them harnesses we use a double D clip lead - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Company-An...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G44JWY6W6PN3DXB31K2B. Just be careful when using, we now use the Julius K9 power-harnesses for my two but they are at a higher price. Hope This Helps, if you would like some more information then please ask :)
 
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